Free Photoshop Tutorials - Get Photoshop Tips
Posted on July 27, 2008
Filed Under Web Design |
There are only two things you have too know about the ExtendScript Toolkit program right now: Select target application, ExtendScript must know which application you are writing the script for. In the top left dropdown menu select Adobe Photoshop CS2 and if asked if you want top start it choose yes. Running script, to run a script you have written you press the button that looks like a play button. Reference documents All objects have different properties that can be set and methods that can be executed and right now you probably don’t know any of these, this is where the reference documents come in. The reference document for JavaScript contains information about all objects available in your scripts. Start with a blank photoshop document of size 1024*768 and white background. Choose the brush “rough round bristle” from the toolbar. Create a new layer and draw some lines. Right click on the new layer and choose “blending options”. Choose the values. DROP SHADOW INNER GLOW BEVEL AND EMBOSS; For “texture”, choose “satin” as the pattern. TEXTURE Now add some motion blur to this layer from filters > blur > motion blur. Similarly, add gaussian blur also to this layer with the radius around 72. Not so catchy yet. Well try this. Change the background color of the default layer as black by choosing Edit > Fill from menu. Now look at the output. Ahh, that looks much better, isn’t it ? You can add some text to this texturized background if you wish.
This is where professional level CMS’s and entry level ones differ. At this point with the entry level you will scan in the printed target and the CMS will actually use the before generated scanner profile to correct the scan, so it can the correct your printed target. A professional level CMS will have a separate hardware device designed specifically for reading printed media targets. I would recommend using Relative Colorimetric as your Rendering Intent when doing the Convert to Profile step and when printing with Print with Preview out of Photoshop. Rendering intents control how the profile is applied to either the scanner or printed image. Relative Colorimetric has proven to be the best in my testing. Read the documentation that came with your CMS in order to learn more about the other available rendering intents.
For consumers with old family photos to restore and enhance, there is now a new easy-to-use internet offering that provides an absolutely no-obligation service. Using only e-mail or the good old postal service to deliver photos to Caledonian Digital, even the most inexperienced computer users have nothing to fear.Glasgow, Scotland (PRWEB) August 18, 2006 - UK based Caledonian Digital launches a no-obligation Photo Restoration and Digital Enhancement service that even consumers with only basic computer and internet experience can use. With no requirement to create an account, log in, upload files or download software, Caledonian Digital’s new online photo restoration service is easy to use. Using only e-mail or the postal service, even the most novice computer and internet user can feel confident using this service.Customers either send their photographs by post, which are then scanned on-site and returned, or they send scans of their photos or images from digital cameras by e-mail.Requests for service will be completed within 72 hours of receipt of photos or images, and all purchased orders include 1 free 6×4 print, with free shipping worldwide.
To use the dodge tool, select it in the toolbox, choose your settings in the options bar, pick a brush from the pop-up palette, and drag in the image to lighten the chosen tones. This tool has an effect on click, but does not do any additional work until it’s moved (unless you click the airbrush button). However, repeated stroking over the same area does have a cumulative effect. If you choose Edit > Fade immediately after using this tool, you can change the opacity of the strokes you have just applied.
Occasionally you have a photo with something that you don’t really want in it. Well now you can remove it with the spot healing tool. This tool will allow you to easily remove unwanted objects inside your photo. With the spot healing tool, you simply click on or drag across the flaw you want to remove and it disappears. The retouched area is blended into the surroundings seamlessly - most of the time anyway. It takes a little practice getting a feel for how brush size and healing work together, but most of the time it does an impressive job.
The easiest way to make teeth whiter in a photo is with your Dodge Tool. (Among your tool icons, it’s the 7th down on the right hand column. If you don’t see it there, right click on the icon and you’ll find two hidden choices; one will be your Dodge Tool.) On the horizontal Tool Options Bar under the Menu, choose “Midtones” for Range, and 40% for Exposure. Also on the Tool Options Bar, choose the appropriate brush for this particular retouching job. Use your Magnifying Glass Icon in Tools to zoom in to the area you want to affect. Then run your brush over the teeth you want to whiten several times, slowly, without releasing your mouse. If you find that the Dodge tool whitened too much, you can either click “Edit,” then “Step Backward,” (to start over), or “Edit”, then “Fade Dodge Tool,” which will allow you to fade the whitening enhancement to your exact preference.
Tons of people are using photoshop, but what aren’t they using it for and should? Restoring Old Photographs. Have a look through that old family photo album - the really old one from up in Grandma’s attic. Inside there are probably a few photos from way back when that haven’t stood the test of time so well. They’ve got cracks and tears that really spoil their appearance. Scan them into Photoshop, and then set to work with the Clone Stamp, Healing Brush, and Patch tools. The Healing Brush in particular is a great tool for this purpose as it samples data from one part of the picture and blends it in with what’s already there. Correcting Mistakes. We’ve all done it: Had an attack of “finger over the lens syndrome,” or got too close with the flash, so our subjects suffer from “red eye” and look like extras from a horror movie. Use the crop tool to salvage something usable from your obscured photo, and the enlarge wizard to blow it up to a reasonable size. For “red eye” and “pet eye,” use the eyedropper tool to sample color from around the iris, and a brush to paint away the red.
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